Ex Vivo and In Vivo Assessment of the Penetration of Topically Applied Anthocyanins Utilizing ATR-FTIR/PLS Regression Models and HPLC-PDA-MS

Antioxidants

LuisE. Rodriguez-Saona¹  GregoryT. Sigurdson¹  Alexandra Westfall¹  M.Mónica Giusti¹ 

[1] Department of Food Science and Technology, The Ohio State University, 2015 Fyffe Ct., Columbus, OH 43210-1007, USA;

关键词: anthocyanins;    dermal delivery system;    color cosmetics;    skin barrier;    spectroscopy;    delivery/vectorization/penetration;   

DOI  :  10.3390/antiox9060486

来源: DOAJ

【 摘 要 】

Anthocyanins are natural colorants with antioxidant properties, shown to inhibit photoaging reactions and reduce symptoms of some skin diseases. However, little is known about their penetration through the stratum corneum, a prerequisite for bioactivity. The aim was to investigate anthocyanin penetration from lipophilic cosmetic formulations through the skin using a porcine ear model and human volunteers. ATR-FTIR/PLS regression and HPLC-PDA-MS were used to analyze anthocyanin permeation through the stratum corneum. Penetration of all anthocyanins was evident and correlated with molecular weight and hydrophilicity. Lower-molecular-weight (MW) anthocyanins from elderberry (449–581 Da) were more permeable within the skin in both ex vivo and in vivo models (K_p = 2.3–2.4 × 10⁻⁴ cm h⁻¹) than the larger anthocyanins (933-1019 Da) from red radish (K_p = 2.0–2.1 × 10⁻⁴ cm h⁻¹). Elderberry and red radish anthocyanins were found at all levels of the stratum corneum and at depths for activity as bioactive ingredients for skin health.

【 授权许可】

Unknown