RESONANT REFLECTION AND REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION OF SURFACE WAVES DUE TO POROUS SUBMERGED BREAKWATERS

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Hiroshi Sakakibara²  Hajime Mase¹  Akira Kimura³ 

[1] Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto Univ.;NEWJEC;Dept. of Social Systems Eng., Tottori Univ.

关键词: breakwater;    reflection;    resonant reflection;    refraction;    diffraction;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v25.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

A wave equation, taking account of the effects of porous medium, is transformed into coupled parabolic equations. It is assumed in the theory that the mean water depth and the thickness of porous layer are slowly varying and the bottom undulation is rapidly varying compared to the wavelength of surface waves. Though we can utilize the Bragg reflection to reduce transmitted waves behind breakwaters in one-dimensional case, wave heights behind breakwaters do not always decrease due to wave refraction-diffraction in horizontal two-dimensional case. By adding a dissipation term to the coupled parabolic equations, we can calculate the wave breaking deformation.

【 授权许可】

Unknown