THE ROLE OF ROLLERS IN THE SURF ZONE CURRENTS

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

William R. Dally¹  Daniel A. Osiecki¹ 

[1] Ocean Engineering Program, Florida Institute of Technology

关键词: rollers;    surf zone;    current;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v24.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

Employing a recently developed model for the creation and evolution of the aerated region of breaking waves, the relative importance of the roller in driving and mixing cross-shore and longshore currents is explored. Modeling results using linear wave theory confirm that in the mean balances of mass, momentum, and energy, the roller plays a role comparable to (and sometimes greater than) the underlying organized wave motion. It also appears that the roller is responsible for the landward shift of the peak cross-shore and longshore current observed in laboratory and field measurements, and is as important as the net convective acceleration in cross-shore mixing of the longshore current.

【 授权许可】

Unknown