CIRCULATION KINEMATICS IN NONLINEAR LABORATORY WAVES

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Tae-in Kim¹  Robert T. Hudspeth²  W. Sulisz³ 

[1] Dept. of Civil Engrng., Korean Military Academy;Ocean Engrng. Program, Dept. of Civil Engrng., Oregon State University;Inst. of Hydroengineering, Polish Academy of Sciences

关键词: nonlinear waves;    laboratory waves;    circulation;    wave kinematics;    circulation kinematics;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v20.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

A weakly nonlinear solution is presented for the two-dimensional wave kinematics forced by a generic wavemaker of variable-draft. The solution is valid for both piston and hinged wavemakers of variable draft that may be double articulated. The second-order propagating waves generated by a planar wave board are composed of two components; viz., a Stokes second-order wave and a second-harmonic wave forced by the wavemaker which travels at a different speed. A previously neglected time-independent solution that is required to satisfy a kinematic boundary condition on the wavemaker as well as a mixed boundary condition on the free surface is included for the first time. A component of the time-independent solution is found to accurately estimate the mean return current (correct to second-order) in a closed wave flume. This mean return current is usually estimated from kinematic considerations by a conservation of mass principle.

【 授权许可】

Unknown