COMBINED REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION OF NONLINEAR WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Sung B. Yoon²  Philip L.F. Liu³  James T. Kirby⁴  Robert A. Dalrymple¹ 

[1] Dept. of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware;School of Civil and Envir. Engrg., Cornell Univ., Ithaca;School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell University;Marine Sciences Research Center, State Univ. of New York

关键词: shallow water;    nonlinear waves;    refraction;    diffraction;    combined refraction-diffraction;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v19.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

The parabolic approximation is developed to study the combined refraction/diffraction of weakly nonlinear shallow water waves. Two methods of approach are taken. In the first method Boussinesq equations are used to derive evolution equations for spectral wave components in a slowly varying two-dimensional domain. The second method modifies the equation of Kadomtsev s Petviashvili to include varying depth in two dimensions. Comparisons are made between present numerical results, experimental data and previous numerical calculations.

【 授权许可】

Unknown