ANOMALOUS DISPERSION OF FOURIER COMPONENTS OF SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES IN THE NEAR SHORE AREA

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Fritz Busching¹ 

[1] Div. of Hydrodyn. and Coastal Engineering Techn. Univ. Braunschweig

关键词: dispersion;    anomalous dispersion;    Fourier components;    gravity waves;    nearshore zone;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v16.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

Water level deflections ri (t) have been measured synchronously at some positions in a beach profile on the isle of SYLT / North Sea during severe storm surge conditions as well as at attenuating wave action. A steadily increasing wave period T in the upbeach direction, turning out from strip chart evaluations, is in accordance with the result of FOURIER syntheses. Near shore wave deformation is explained by ANOMALOUS dispersion of the frequency components.

【 授权许可】

Unknown