The Runup of Long Waves

Solitary waves;tsunamis

Synolakis, Constantine Emmanuel ; Raichlen, Fredric

University:California Institute of Technology

Department:Engineering and Applied Science

关键词: Solitary waves;    tsunamis;   

Others  :  https://thesis.library.caltech.edu/3506/1/Synolakis_ce_1986.pdf

美国|英语

来源: Caltech THESIS

【 摘 要 】

This is a study of the fundamental physical processes of the runup of long waves with the objective to understand some coastal effects of tsunamis.

The runup of nonbreaking long waves on plane beaches is studied and an exact solution is developed for the runup of solitary waves. The maximum runup predicted by this solution is compared to laboratory data from this and other investigations and it is found to be in good agreement. A runup transducer was developed and deployed in the laboratory to provide data for the shape of the runup tongue. The exact solution is shown to model the details of the climb of the wave satisfactorily.

The runup of breaking long waves on plane beaches is investigated in the laboratory by studying different long waves and bores of finite volume. The runup is shown to be a function of a momentum scale determined from the generation characteristics of the incoming wave. The runup number is introduced and it is demonstrated that it models the runup process adequately. It is also observed that arbitrary long waves have runup numbers smaller than, or at most equal to, the runup number of breaking solitary waves, suggesting that on a given plane beach breaking solitary waves run-up further than other long waves with similar generation characteristics.

An exact result is established for the force on an accelerating plate in a fluid with a free surface. The result is used to explain some of the results of this study and other results on the hydrodynamic forces on moving partitions.

A technique is developed to generate arbitrary, long, continuously evolving waves at any desired location in a laboratory model. The technique is applied in the laboratory and it is shown to be successful in reproducing complex waveforms.