The morphodynamic response of a gravel barrier to unimodal and bimodal storm wave conditions

Frontiers in Marine Science

Marine Science

Khan Ozdemir¹  D. E. Reeve¹  Harshinie Karunarathna¹  Kristian Ions¹  Douglas Pender² 

[1] Energy and Environment Research Group, Faculty of Science and Engineering, Swansea University, Swansea, United Kingdom;JBA Consulting, Edinburgh, Scotland, United Kingdom;

关键词: Gravel barrier;    beach erosion;    XBeach numerical model;    bimodal wave spectrum;    sediment transport;   

DOI  :  10.3389/fmars.2023.1087771

 received in 2022-11-02, accepted in 2023-03-20,  发布年份 2023

来源: Frontiers

【 摘 要 】

Gravel barrier beaches can offer natural protection to coastlines from adverse storm conditions. Understanding the morphodynamics of gravel barrier beaches is vital for the effective and sustainable management of these systems. Here, we use a synthetic dataset to investigate the morphodynamic response of the gravel barrier beach at Hurst Castle Spit, located on the Southwest coast of the United Kingdom, to both unimodal and bimodal storms. This spit is exposed to wind and swell waves propagating up the English Channel from the Southwest approaches and has suffered repeated storm erosion. The results are analyzed to identify the key drivers that govern the spatio-temporal gravel barrier morphodynamic responses to storms and to explore the morphodynamic states of the barrier. We found that the morphodynamic response of the barrier beach is strongly influenced by the combination of storm wave height and still water level. Further, the presence of swell waves can be a controlling factor in the barrier response.

【 授权许可】

Unknown   
Copyright © 2023 Ions, Ozdemir, Pender, Reeve and Karunarathna