Nearshore Waves and Littoral Drift Along a Micro-Tidal Wave-Dominated Coast Having Comparable Wind-Sea and Swell Energy

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering

V.Sanil Kumar¹  Jai Singh¹  Jesbin George²  R. Gowthaman² 

[1] Industrial Research), Dona Paula-403 004 Goa, India;;Ocean Engineering Division, CSIR-National Institute of Oceanography (Council of Scientific &

关键词: coastal processes;    longshore sediment transport;    nearshore modelling;    swells;    wave characteristics;    wind-seas;   

DOI  :  10.3390/jmse8010055

来源: DOAJ

【 摘 要 】

The nearshore wave characteristics and variations in littoral drift (longshore sediment transport; LST) are estimated based on different approaches for four years along the Vengurla coast, with comparable wind-sea and swell energy assessed. The waverider buoy-measured data at 15 m water depth is utilized as the input wave parameters along with the reanalysis model data, and the numerical wave model Delft-3D is used for estimating the nearshore wave parameters. The relative contribution of wind-seas and swells on LST rates are specifically examined. The clear prevalence of west-southwest waves implies the prevalence of south to north longshore sediment transport with net transport varying from 0.19−0.37 × 10⁵ m³/yr. LST is strongly dependent on the breaker angle and a small change in the wave direction substantially alters the LST, and hence reanalysis/model data with coarse resolutions produce large errors (~38%) in the LST estimate. The annual gross LST rate based on integral wave parameters is only 58% considering the wind-seas and swells separately, since the wind-sea energy is comparable to swell energy, and the direction of these two systems differs significantly.

【 授权许可】

Unknown