Hydration and Barrier Properties of Emulsions with the Addition of Keratin Hydrolysate

Cosmetics

Jana Pavlačková¹  Pavel Mokrejš²  Matouš Huťťa²  Dagmar Janáčová³ 

[1] Department of Fat, Tenside and Cosmetics Technology, Faculty of Technology, Tomas Bata University in Zlín, Vavrečkova 275, 760 01 Zlín, Czech Republic;Department of Polymer Engineering, Faculty of Technology, Tomas Bata University in Zlín, Vavrečkova 275, 760 01 Zlín, Czech Republic;Department of Processing Control and Applied Computer Science, Faculty of Applied Informatics, Tomas Bata University in Zlín, Nad Stráněmi 4511, 760 05 Zlín, Czech Republic;

关键词: emulsion;    humectant;    hydration;    keratin hydrolysate;    occlusive;    transepidermal water loss;   

DOI  :  10.3390/cosmetics5040064

来源: DOAJ

【 摘 要 】

Although keratin hydrolysates (KH) are added to skin care agents, detailed studies on the moisturising effects of KH are lacking. The aim of this study is to test whether adding KH into an ointment base (OB) heighten hydration of the skin and diminish transepidermal loss of water (TEWL). Formulations containing 2%, 4%, and 6% of KH (based on OB weight) were prepared. Hydration, TEWL and skin pH were measured; intervals of measurements were as follows: 1, 2, 3, 4, 24 and 48 h. Testing was carried out on 10 men. In terms of hydration, supplementing the OB with 2% KH is optimal, as an 11⁻19% increase occurs in hydration of stratum corneum (SC). All the formulations with added KH as tested caused TEWL to decline after application. Keratin hydrolysate makes for an excellent occlusive; adding it to OB results in a 30⁻50% reduction in TEWL after application. KH functions as a humectant as well, as it helps to bind water from the lower layers of the epidermis to the SC. Formulations with additions of 2⁻6% of KH were stable in structure and did not cause phase separation even after 6 months storage.

【 授权许可】

Unknown