Phytocosmetic Emulsion Containing Extract of Morus nigra L. (Moraceae): Development, Stability Study, Antioxidant and Antibacterial Activities

Cosmetics

Silvio Alan Gonçalves Bomfim Reis¹  Amanda Leite Guimarães¹  Naiane Darklei dos Santos Silva¹  Joao Miguel Rocha²  Jackson Roberto Guedes da Silva Almeida³  Rafaela Santos de Melo³  Noureddine El Aouad⁴ 

[1] Center for Studies and Research of Medicinal Plants (NEPLAME), Federal University of Vale do São Francisco, Petrolina 56304-205, Pernambuco, Brazil;LEPABE—Laboratory for Process Engineering, Environment, Biotechnology and Energy, Faculty of Engineering, University of Porto, Rua Dr. Roberto Frias, 4200-465 Porto, Portugal;Post-Graduate Program in Biotechnology (RENORBIO), Federal Rural University of Pernambuco, Recife 52171-900, Pernambuco, Brazil;Research Team on Biological Engineering, Agrifood and Aquaculture, Polydisciplinary Faculty of Larache FPL, Abdelmalek Essaadi University, Tetouan 95000, Morocco;

关键词: Morus nigra;    black mulberry;    phytocosmetics;    plant extracts;    antioxidants;    antibacterial;   

DOI  :  10.3390/cosmetics9020039

来源: DOAJ

【 摘 要 】

Morus nigra L. is a species popularly known in the Northeast of Brazil as “amora miúra”. This species is a source of flavonoids with antioxidant activity. Antioxidants play an important role in the preservation of cosmetic formulations, and they neutralize free radicals. The objective of this study was to develop a topical emulsion containing leaf extract of Morus nigra L., as well as to evaluate the stability, antioxidant and antibacterial activities of the formulations. A crude hydroalcoholic (70%) extract of M. nigra leaves (MnCE) was submitted to high-performance liquid chromatography with diode-array detection (HPLC–DAD) analysis and incorporated into an anionic base emulsion. Antioxidant activity was evaluated according to the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) method, and the stability of the formulation was assessed for 90 days, submitting the emulsion to storage at 4, 20, and 37 °C. Microdilution techniques evaluated the antibacterial activity and a challenge test assessed the microbiological stability. Analysis by HPLC–DAD identified the flavonoids rutin and isoquercetin in the M. nigra extract. The emulsion and plant extract presented antioxidant activity, and the stability of the emulsion was preserved in terms of pH value and viscosity—which did not show significant changes, except for the spreadability, which was affected by the temperature. The antioxidant activity did not change significantly, except for the sample under 4 °C, which showed a considerable decrease in activity. The crude hydroalcoholic extract and formulation showed antimicrobial activity and the emulsion was considered stable in terms of organoleptic, physicochemical, and microbiological properties.

【 授权许可】

Unknown