Alkenones, a Renewably Sourced, Biobased Wax as an SPF Booster for Organic Sunscreens

Cosmetics

Mark Chandler¹  GregoryW. O’Neil²  ChristopherM. Reddy³  An Huynh⁴  Gabriella Baki⁴  MariamS. Abou-Dahech⁴ 

[1] ACT Solutions Corp, Newark, DE 19713, USA;Department of Chemistry, Western Washington University, Bellingham, WA 98225, USA;Department of Marine Chemistry and Geochemistry, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI), Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA;Department of Pharmacy Practice, College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Toledo, Toledo, OH 43614, USA;

关键词: alkenones;    Isochrysis sp.;    wax;    organic liquid UV filter;    sunscreen;    in vitro SPF;    water resistance;   

DOI  :  10.3390/cosmetics6010011

来源: DOAJ

【 摘 要 】

Sun exposure can affect the skin in various ways leading to short- and long-term consequences. Waxes are often used to optimize the rheological behavior of products and provide an even sunscreen film on the skin, which can boost the sun protection factor (SPF) of ultraviolet (UV) filters. In this study, a biobased wax, alkenones, sourced from commercially available and sustainable microalgae was evaluated as an SPF booster in sunscreens. Thirty-five sunscreens were formulated using three waxes and four organic liquid UV filters. Products were tested for pH, viscosity, spreadability, stability, as well as in vitro SPF and water resistance. Alkenones’ in vitro SPF boosting capacity was similar to beeswax and cetyl alcohol with three “reef-safe„ UV filters. None of the waxes used provided significant water resistance, however, using film-former water resistance could be built into the products. A key finding is that alkenones increased the in vitro SPF without increasing apparent viscosity. All products had a skin-compatible pH and they all remained stable at 25 °C for 10 weeks. Overall, the alkenones’ performance was comparable to those of the comparator waxes. Our in vitro results indicate that alkenones offer a sustainable, biobased, non-animal derived choice as an SPF booster for organic sunscreens.

【 授权许可】

Unknown