Note on estimating bed shear stress caused by breaking random waves

Oceanologia

Muk Chen Ong¹  Dag Myrhaug² 

[1] Corresponding author at: Department of Marine Technology, Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU), Otto Nielsens vei 10, NO-7491 Trondheim, Norway.;Department of Marine Technology, Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU), Trondheim, Norway;

关键词: Bed shear stress;    Breaking random waves;    Surf similarity parameter;    Wave height;    Individual waves;    Joint distributions;   

DOI  :  

来源: DOAJ

【 摘 要 】

This note presents a method of how the bed shear stress caused by breaking random waves on slopes can be estimated. This is obtained by adopting the Sumer et al. (2013) bed shear stress formula due to spilling and plunging breaking waves on hydraulically smooth slopes combined with the Myrhaug and Fouques (2012) joint distribution of surf similarity parameter and wave height for individual random waves in deep water. The conditional mean value of the maxima of mean bed shear stress during wave runup given wave height in deep water is provided including an example for spilling and plunging breaking random waves corresponding to typical field conditions. Another example compares the present results with one case from Thornton and Guza (1983) estimating the wave energy dissipation caused by bed shear stress beneath breaking random waves.

【 授权许可】

Unknown