Concentration of Antioxidant Compounds from Calendula officinalis through Sustainable Supercritical Technologies, and Computational Study of Their Permeability in Skin for Cosmetic Use

Antioxidants

卷:11

Elisa Langa¹  M. Rosa Pino-Otín¹  Ana M. Mainar²  José S. Urieta²  Raquel Mur² 

[1] Campus Universitario Villanueva de Gállego, Universidad San Jorge, Autovía A-23 Zaragoza-Huesca Km. 299, 50830 Villanueva de Gallego, Spain;

[2] GATHERS Group, Aragón Institute of Engineering Research (I3A), Universidad de Zaragoza, c/. Mariano Esquillor s/n, 50018 Zaragoza, Spain;

关键词: supercritical antisolvent fractionation;    ferulic acid;    caffeic acid;    chlorogenic acid;    permeability skin;   

DOI  :  10.3390/antiox11010096

来源: DOAJ

【 摘 要 】

The growing interest in the cosmetic industry in using compounds of natural and sustainable origin that are safe for humans is encouraging the development of processes that can satisfy these needs. Chlorogenic acid (CHA), caffeic acid (CAF) and ferulic acid (FA) are three compounds widely used within the cosmetic industry due to their functionalities as antioxidants, collagen modifiers or even as radiation protectors. In this work, two advanced separation techniques with supercritical CO₂ are used to obtain these three compounds from Calendula officinalis, and these are then evaluated using a computational skin permeability model. This model is encompassed by the COSMO-RS model, the calculations of which make it possible to study the behaviour of the compounds in the epidermis. The results show that both CAF and FA are retained in the stratum corneum, while CHA manages to penetrate to the stratum spinosum. These compounds were concentrated by antisolvent fractionation with super-critical CO₂ using a Response Surface Methodology to study the effect of pressure and CO₂ flow rate. CHA, CAF and FA were completely retained in the precipitation vessel, with concentrations between 40% and 70% greater than in the original extract. The conditions predicted that the optimal overall yield and enrichment achieved would be 153 bar and 42 g/min.

【 授权许可】

Unknown