On-Sight and Red-Point Climbing: Changes in Performance and Route-Finding Ability in Male Advanced Climbers

Frontiers in Psychology

article

Eloisa Limonta¹  Maurizio Fanchini³  Susanna Rampichini¹  Emiliano Cé¹  Stefano Longo¹  Giuseppe Coratella¹  Fabio Esposito¹ 

[1] Department of Biomedical Sciences for Health, University of Milan;IRCCS Galeazzi Orthopedic Institute;Department of Neurosciences, Biomedicine and Movement Sciences, University of Verona

关键词: sport climbing;    lead climbing;    bouldering;    route preview;    movement sequence recall;    climbing performance;    climbing style;   

DOI  :  10.3389/fpsyg.2020.00902

学科分类：社会科学、人文和艺术（综合）

来源: Frontiers

【 摘 要 】

Aim In lead climbing, the ascent of the route can be defined as on-sight or red-point. On-sight is the more challenging style since it demands greater physiological and psychological commitment. The differences between the two modes in advanced climbers have not been studied much. Two essential skills needed to optimize performance, in both on-sight and in red-point climbing, are route interpretation (RI) ability and movements sequence recall. Therefore, this study aimed to compare performance between on-sight and red-point ascent in advanced climbers and evaluate how a climber’s RI ability and movement sequences recall might change before and after on-sight and red-point climbing.

【 授权许可】

CC BY