Bio-Guided Targeting for Preservative and Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Ingredient Development

Cosmetics

Emilie Destandau¹  Isabelle Krolikiewicz-Renimel²  Saida El Abdellaoui¹  Perrine Cancellieri³  Laetitia Fougère¹  Alix Toribio¹  Ludovic Landemarre³  Patrice André² 

[1] ICOA, Université d’Orléans, CNRS, UMR 7311, Orléans F-45067, France; E-Mails:;LVMH Recherche Parfums et Cosmétiques, Saint Jean de Braye 45800, France; E-Mails:;GLYcoDIAG, Université d’Orléans, Orléans Cedex 2 45067, France; E-Mails:

关键词: Bryophyllum pinnatum;    semi-preparative HPLC fractionation;    microorganisms;    human keratinocytes;    cytotoxicity;    mass spectrometry;   

DOI  :  10.3390/cosmetics1010014

来源: mdpi

【 摘 要 】

To develop a new antioxidant, antibacterial and natural cosmetic ingredient without cytotoxicity to skin cells, bioactive molecules contained in Kalanchoe pinnata leaf methanolic extract were targeted using semi-preparative HPLC fractionation linked to biological activity tests. Chromatographic effluent was collected at the column outlet into a 96 deep-well microplate, filling successively all the wells. After freeze-drying, the microplate was ready to use for different biological tests such as antimicrobial activity on microorganisms, skin cell viability and antioxidant activity on human keratinocyte cells. The injection of only 2.64 mg of crude extract into the HPLC system reveals a good correlation between the chromatographic peaks and the different biological activities. One fraction is mainly of interest since good antibacterial and antioxidant activities without cytotoxicity are observed. The analysis of this fraction using mass spectrometry allows the identification of glycoside derivatives of quercetin, isorhamnetin and kaempferol. Thus, a correlation between biological activity and the presence of these flavonoids is obtained. This screening method allows a rapid fractionation associated with a biological activity evaluation and a first molecular identification, saving time by limiting sample treatments and solvent consumption.

【 授权许可】

CC BY   
© 2014 by the authors; licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.