Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering

Serge Suanez¹  Romain Cancouët¹  France Floc’h⁵  Emmanuel Blaise¹  Fabrice Ardhuin⁴  Jean-François Filipot³  Jean-Marie Cariolet²  Christophe Delacourt⁵ 

[1] LETG-Brest-Géomer UMR 6554 CNRS, Institut Universitaire Européen de la Mer, Rue Dumont d’Urville, Plouzané 29280, France; E-Mails:;Lab’Urba—EIVP, Université Paris Est, 80 rue Rébeval, Paris 75019, France; E-Mail:;France Energies Marines, 15 rue Johannes Kepler, Site du Vernis, Technopôle Brest-Iroise, Brest 29200, France; E-Mail:;Laboratoire de Physique des Océans (LPO) UMR 6523 CNRS-Ifremer-IRD, Institut Universitaire Européen de la Mer, Rue Dumont d’Urville, Plouzané 29280, France; E-Mail:;Laboratoire Domaines Océaniques (LDO) UMR 6558 CNRS, Institut Universitaire Européen de la Mer, Rue Dumont d’Urville, Plouzané 29280, France; E-Mails:

关键词: macrotidal beach;    runup;    storm;    dune;    erosion;    extreme water level;    NAO;   

DOI  :  10.3390/jmse3030674

来源: mdpi

【 摘 要 】

Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004–2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide; (ii) storm surge; and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (H_m0, T_m0,–1, and high tide water level—HTWL) data sets obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes [1] runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels over the whole period of dune morphological change monitoring. A good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01H_moξ_o) and field runup measurements (R_max) was obtained (R² 85%). The goodness of fit given by the RMSE was about 0.29 m. A good relationship was noticed between dune erosion and high water levels when the water levels exceeded the dune foot elevation. In contrast, when extreme water levels were below the height of the toe of the dune sediment budget increased, inducing foredune recovery. These erosion and accretion phases may be related to the North Atlantic Oscillation Index.

【 授权许可】

CC BY   
© 2015 by the authors; licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.