An Experimental and Numerical Study of Long Wave Run-Up on a Plane Beach

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering

Ulrike Drähne¹  Nils Goseberg²  Stefan Vater³  Nicole Beisiegel³  Jörn Behrens³  Valentin Heller⁴ 

[1] Department of Mechanical Engineering, Faculty of Engineering Science, University College London, Gower Street, London WC1E 6BT, UKDepartment of Civil Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, University of Ottawa, 161, Louis Pasteur St.,A609, Ottawa, ON K1N 6N5, Canada;CEN—Center for Earth System Research and Sustainability, Universität Hamburg, Grindelberg 5, Hamburg, Germany;;id="af1-jmse-04-00001">1Department of Mechanical Engineering, Faculty of Engineering Science, University College London, Gower Street, London WC1E 6BT,

关键词: long wave;    tsunami run-up;    pump-driven wave generator;    discontinuous Galerkin model;    shallow water equations;   

DOI  :  10.3390/jmse4010001

来源: mdpi

【 摘 要 】

This research is to facilitate the current understanding of long wave dynamics at coasts and during on-land propagation; experimental and numerical approaches are compared against existing analytical expressions for the long wave run-up. Leading depression sinusoidal waves are chosen to model these dynamics. The experimental study was conducted using a new pump-driven wave generator and the numerical experiments were carried out with a one-dimensional discontinuous Galerkin non-linear shallow water model. The numerical model is able to accurately reproduce the run-up elevation and velocities predicted by the theoretical expressions. Depending on the surf similarity of the generated waves and due to imperfections of the experimental wave generation, riding waves are observed in the experimental results. These artifacts can also be confirmed in the numerical study when the data from the physical experiments is assimilated. Qualitatively, scale effects associated with the experimental setting are discussed. Finally, shoreline velocities, run-up and run-down are determined and shown to largely agree with analytical predictions.

【 授权许可】

CC BY   
© 2015 by the authors; licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.