OBSERVATION AND SIMULATION OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES ON TWO NATURAL BEACHES

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Nicholas Dodd¹  Satoshi Nakamura² 

[1] HR wallingford;Marine Environment Division, Port and Harbour Research Institute

关键词: natural beach;    low frequency waves;    wave observation;    wave simulation;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v26.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

Field observations of low-frequency wave on natural beaches are carried out. The ratio of the wave height of low-frequency wave near the shoreline to the wind wave height at the offshore has positive correlation with the surf similarity parameter. Using the field data, a validation of a numerical model was made. The model includes basic mechanisms of low-frequency wave generation that low-frequency wave increases with shoaling of wind waves groups, they are released from wave groups due to wave breaking and wind wave period becomes longer due to run-up to the beach. The model results tend to be excessively computed against field data.

【 授权许可】

Unknown