WAVE TRANSFORMATION NEAR A QUASI-1D COAST

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

L.H. Holthuijsen²  A.T.M.M. Kieftenburg²  J.H. Andorka Gal¹  J.C.M. de Jong² 

[1] Ministry of Transport, Public Works and Water Management;Delft University of Technology

关键词: wave transformation;    quasi-1D coast;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v26.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

Two sets of observations of wave transformation near two quasi one-dimensional coasts, from deep water (22 m) to shallow water (0.5 m) have been simulated with the third-generation spectral wave model SWAN. The first set of observations contains wind waves that are generated by a local storm off the North Sea coast of the Netherlands. The second set contains a mix of swell and local wind waves at the Pacific coast of Japan. Repeated computations without triad wave-wave interactions show that the inclusion of this process in the model is essential. A f ^dependency of the depth-induced dissipation (rather than the conventional frequency independence in SWAN), causes too much energy dissipation in the high frequencies, shifting the mean frequency to too low values.

【 授权许可】

Unknown