WAVE BREAKING AND INDUCED NEARSHORE CIRCULATIONS

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Hemming A. Schaffer¹  Ole R. Sorensen¹  Per A. Madsen¹  Rolf Deigaard² 

[1] International Research Center for Computational Hydrodynamics (ICCH), Danish Hydraulic Institute;Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering (ISVA), Technical University of Denmark

关键词: wave breaking;    nearshore circulation;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v24.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

Wave breaking and wave induced currents are studied in two horizontal dimensions. The wave-current motion is modelled using a set of Boussinesq type equations including the effects of wave breaking and runup. This is done without the traditional splitting of the phenomenon into a wave problem and a current problem. Wave breaking is included using the surface roller concept and runup is simulated by use of a modified slot-technique. In the environment of a plane sloping beach two different situations are studied. One is the case of a rip channel and the other concerns a detached breakwater parallel to the shoreline. In both situations wave driven currents are generated and circulation cells appear. This and many other nearshore physical phenomena are described qualitatively correct in the simulations.

【 授权许可】

Unknown