VELOCITY FIELD MEASUREMENTS AND THEORETICAL COMPARISONS FOR NON-LINEAR WAVES ON MILD SLOPES

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Clive A. Greater¹  Michele Drago³  Paul A. Quinn⁴  Marco Petti² 

[1] Fluid Dynamics, Department of Physics & Astronomy, The University of Edinburgh;Department of Civil Engineering, The University of Florence;ENVI, Snamprogetti SpA.;Fluid Dynamics Unit, Department of Physics & Astronomy, The University of Edinburgh

关键词: mild slope;    velocity field;    velocity measurement;    theoretical comparison;    nonlinear waves;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v24.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

The way in which the Boussinesq and Serre models deal with the internal kinematics of waves on mildly sloping beaches is examined. The equation normally used on the depth-averaged horizontal velocity to impose a parabolic profile vertically up through the wave is studied using experimentally and theoretically obtained values. In general, it is found that for near-bed regions the equation provides satisfactory comparisons, however, as one approaches the surface the theoretical values can substantially exceed the experimental ones, particularly in the crest of the wave.

【 授权许可】

Unknown