DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WAVES ACTING ON STEEP AND GENTLE BEACHES

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Kazumasa Katoh¹ 

[1] Littoral Drift Laboratory, Port and Harbour Research Institute, Ministry of Transport

关键词: steep beach;    gentle beach;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v24.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

The physical difference of beach erosions between on the steep and on the gentle beaches has been discussed, based on the field data and the theory of generation of the infragravity waves. As a result, it is shown that the incident waves are predominant in the wave run-up phenomena on the steeper beach, while on the gentler beach the infragravity waves are predominant.

【 授权许可】

Unknown