BREAKING WAVES PROPAGATING OVER A SHOAL

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

S. Beji²  J.A. Battjes¹ 

[1] Dept. of Civil Eng., Delft University of Technology;Naval Architecture and ocean Engineering Faculty, Istanbul Technical University

关键词: shoal;    breaking waves;    wave propagation;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v23.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

Spectral evolution of breaking and nearly breaking waves propagating over a submerged trapezoidal bar has been investigated in laboratory experiments. It is found that wave breaking itself does not play a crucial role in the evolution of the spectral shape, but contributes simply by extracting energy roughly in proportion to the local spectral density. For nonbreaking waves, a Boussinesq model with improved dispersion characteristics is found to simulate the wave evolution very well. On the basis of these findings, it is suggested to combine a semi-empirical model for the overall energy dissipation with a nondissipative Boussinesq model so as to obtain a model for simulation of spectral evolution of breaking waves.

【 授权许可】

Unknown