MODELLING SHOALING DIRECTIONAL WAVE SPECTRA IN SHALLOW WATER

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

James T. Kirby¹ 

[1] Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware

关键词: shallow water;    wave spectra;    directional spectra;    shoaling;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v22.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

This paper describes the development of a model for the shoaling and refraction of an incident directional spectrum over beach topography. The present model is limited to topography which varies only in the on- offshore direction, but no restriction is made on allowed angles of incidence with respect to the shore-normal direction. The model is verified in comparison to laboratory data for Mach reflection of cnoidal waves from a vertical plane wall. It is shown that the model provides a more accurate representation of the evolving wave field than does an earlier parabolic approximation, using the same laboratory data.

【 授权许可】

Unknown