COUPLING STOKES AND CNOIDAL WAVE THEORIES IN A NONLINEAR REFRACTION MODEL

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Nicholas C. Kraus¹  Thomas A. Hardy² 

[1] Coastal Engineering Research Center, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, P.O. Box 631, Vicksburg;Department of Civil and Systems Engineering, James Cook University

关键词: theory coupling;    Stokes theory;    cnoidal theory;    nonlinear refraction;    refraction model;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v21.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

An efficient numerical model is presented for calculating the refraction and shoaling of finite-amplitude waves over an irregular sea bottom. The model uses third-order Stokes wave theory in relatively deep water and second-order cnoidal wave theory in relatively shallow water. It can also be run using combinations of lower-order wave theories, including a pure linear wave mode. The problem of the connection of Stokes and cnoidal theories is investigated, and it is found that the use of second-order rather than first-order cnoidal theory greatly reduces the connection discontinuity. Calculations are compared with physical model measurements of the height and direction of waves passing over an elliptical shoal. The finite-amplitude wave model gives better qualitative and quantitative agreement with the measurements than the linear model.

【 授权许可】

Unknown