NUMERICAL MODEL OF BREAKING WAVE AROUND A RIVER MOUTH

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Ichiro Deguchi¹  Jong-Sup Lee²  Toru Sawaragi¹ 

[1] Dept. of Civil Eng., Osaka Univ;Dept. of Ocean Eng., National Fisheries Univ. of Pusan

关键词: numerical model;    wave breaking;    river mouth;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v20.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

Equations for wave kinematics and wave dynamics based on small amplitude wave theory have been used in the prediction of wave deformations and wave-indused currents. However, the applicability of the linear wave theory is questionable in a river mouth where forced wave breaking and strong wave-current interaction take place. A numerical model based on the non-linear dispersive wave theory has been developed, the results by this model was compared with the values of the experiments and the linear theory. Wave transformations including shoaling, wave-current interaction and wave breaking by the model showed a good agreement with the experimental result. In the prediction of wave-induced currents, the excess momentum flux (Pxx) computed by the model has more reasonable value than the radiation stress ( Sxx) calculated by the small amplitude wave theory.

【 授权许可】

Unknown