TOWARD A SIMPLE MODEL OF THE WAVE BREAKING TRANSITION REGION IN SURF ZONES

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Takao Yamashita²  David R. Basco¹ 

[1] Coastal Engineering Institute, Old Dominion Univ.;Diaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto Univers

关键词: surf zones;    simple model;    wave breaking;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v20.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

Breaking waves undergo a transition from oscillatory, irrotational motion, to highly rotational (turbulent) motion with some particle translation. On plane or monotonically decreasing beach profiles, this physically takes place in such a way that the mean water level remains essentially constant within the transition region. Further shoreward a rapid set-up takes place within the inner, bore-like region. The new surf zone model of Svendsen (1984) begins at this transition point and the new wave there contains a trapped volume of water within the surface roller moving with the wave speed. This paper describes a simple model over the transition zone designed to match the Svendsen (1984) model at the end of the transition region. It uses a simple, linear growth model for the surface roller area development and semi-empirical model for the variation of the wave shape factor. Breaking wave type can vary from spilling through plunging as given by a surf similarity parameter. The model calculates the wave height decrease and width of the transition region for all breaker types on plane or monotonically depth decreasing beaches.

【 授权许可】

Unknown