A NUMERICAL MODEL FOR REFRACTION OF LINEAR AND CNOIDAL WAVES

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

John R. Headland¹  Hsiao-Ling Chu² 

[1] Moffatt and Nichol Engineers;Civil Engineering, California State University

关键词: cnoidal waves;    linear waves;    numerical model;    refraction;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v19.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

A numerical model for refraction of linear and cnoidal waves over an arbitrary bottom is presented. The model, which is based on the ray theory of refraction (11), utilizes linear theory in deep and intermediate water and cnoidal theory in shallow water. The model permits one to determine nearshore wave properties using a nonlinear wave theory. Nearshore wave properties such as wave height, celerity, and wave angle determined using the linear-cnoidal refraction model may vary considerably from those determined using a linear refraction model. In general, cnoidal waves refract less, travel faster, and shoal higher than linear waves. This result can have a considerable effect on coastal engineering design, particularly in the areas of coastal structure design and longshore transport computations.

【 授权许可】

Unknown