SHALLOW WATER WAVES: A SPECTRAL APPROACH

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Charles L. Vincent¹ 

[1] Offshore S Coastal Technologies, Inc.

关键词: shallow water;    wave spectrum;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v19.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

Bouws et al. (1983, 1984) have shown that wind sea spectra in finite depth water can be described by a self-similar spectral equation that in the deep water limit is the JONSWAP spectrum (Hasselmann et al. 1973). This paper shows that the spectral parameter a is linked to wave steepness, for wind sea and swell; presents a simple model for wave transformation across the surf zone; and shows that the spectral theory provides data similar to the results of Bretschneider (1958) for shallow water wave growth.

【 授权许可】

Unknown