THE FLUID MECHANICS OF WAVES APPROACHING BREAKING

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

E.D. Cokelet¹  D.H. Peregrine²  P. McIver³ 

[1] Pacific Marine Environmental Laboratory/NOAA;Mathematics, University of Bristol;University of Bristol

关键词: fluid mechanics;    wave mechanics;    near breaking waves;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v17.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

Numerical computations of water waves deforming until an overhanging, incipient jet has formed near the crest are studied in detail. Velocity and acceleration plots lead to the identification of three regions in the water which appear to be significant in the approach to breaking. In particular there is a region with particle accelerations greater than the acceleration of gravity.

【 授权许可】

Unknown