TRANSFORMATION OF IRREGULAR WAVES IN SHOALING WATER

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Yuichi Iwagaki¹  Tetsuo Sakai¹ 

[1] Department of Civil Engineering Kyoto University

关键词: wave transformation;    shoaling;    irregular waves;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v14.%p

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

In the numerical method of prediction of wind waves in deep water, Hasselmann's nonlinear interaction theory is applied. This method assumes the energy balance of individual component waves. However, the total energy balance must exist in the transformation of irregular waves in shoaling water. In this investigation, experiments were carried out on the transformations in shoaling water of composite waves having two components and random waves having one or two main peaks. It was found that the elementary component wave height of the composite waves and the elementary peak power of the random waves decrease with decrease in the water depth. This reason can be explained qualitatively by the theory of the elementary component wave height change of finite amplitude waves in shoaling water. The secondary component wave height of the composite waves and the secondary peak power of the random waves increase with decrease in the water depth. This can be explained qualitatively by Hamada's theory of nonlinear interaction in uniform depth.

【 授权许可】

Unknown