ON NON-SATURATED BREAKERS AND THE WAVE RUN-UP

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Bernard Le Mehaute¹ 

[1] National Engineering Science Co.

关键词: non-saturated breaker;    run-up;    breaking index;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v8.6

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

Some theoretical results pertaining to the physical behavior of gravity waves on a sloped plane are presented. The notion of "saturated" breakers and "non-saturated" breakers which follow the breaking index curve is introduced. Criteria for different kinds of breaking and successive breaking of waves are presented. Some considerations on the wave run-up are deduced.Then a critical analysis of the method of characteristics is presented, with some possible refinements. Path curvature effect is taken into account and the problem of waves climbing on a dry bed is solved. Criteria for determining saturated and non-saturated breakers and the wave run-up by the method of characteristics are proposed.

【 授权许可】

Unknown