DETERMINATION OF THE WAVE HEIGHT IN NATURE FROM MODEL TESTS SUPPLEMENTED BY CALCULATION

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

J. G. Gerritze¹  J. G.H.R. Diephuis¹ 

[1] Hydraulics Laboratory Delft, Holland.

关键词: wave refraction;    model studies;    energy balance;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v6.12

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

This paper deals with the problem of determining the wave characteristics in shallow water from those in deep water. In general this can be done by means of a refraction calculation. If the sea bottom topography is too irregular the height of the waves can be determined by means of a small-scale refraction model. In both cases, however, some additional effects have to be taken into account, viz. the influence of the bottom friction and the influence of the wind.

【 授权许可】

Unknown