Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering | |
THE THEORY OF THE REFRACTION OF A SHORT CRESTED GAUSSIAN SEA SURFACE WITH APPLICATION TO THE NORTHERN NEW JERSEY COAST | |
Willard J. Pierson, Jr.1  John A. Woolley1  John J. Tuttell1  | |
[1] New York University | |
关键词: wave refraction; wave theory; Asbury Park; New Jersery; | |
DOI : 10.9753/icce.v3.8 | |
学科分类:建筑学 | |
来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council | |
【 摘 要 】
The Thorndike Barnhart Dictionary (1951) defines a wave as a "moving ridge or swell of water." Almost everyone will agree to this definition. Milne-Thompson (1938) in Theoretical Hydrodynamics begins Chapter Fourteen on waves with the two paragraphs quoted in full below:"14.10 Wave motion. A wave motion of a liquid acted upon by gravity and having a free surface is a motion in which the elevation of the free surface above some chosen fixed horizontal plane varies with time.Taking the axis of x to be horizontal and the axis of z to be vertically upwards, a motion in which the vertical section of the free surface at time t is of the form z = a sin(mx - nt) (1), where a, m, n are constants, is called a simple harmonic progressive wave."
【 授权许可】
Unknown
【 预 览 】
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RO201912020437975ZK.pdf | 553KB | download |