THE THEORY OF THE REFRACTION OF A SHORT CRESTED GAUSSIAN SEA SURFACE WITH APPLICATION TO THE NORTHERN NEW JERSEY COAST

Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Willard J. Pierson, Jr.¹  John A. Woolley¹  John J. Tuttell¹ 

[1] New York University

关键词: wave refraction;    wave theory;    Asbury Park;    New Jersery;   

DOI  :  10.9753/icce.v3.8

学科分类：建筑学

来源: Coastal Engineering Research Council

【 摘 要 】

The Thorndike Barnhart Dictionary (1951) defines a wave as a "moving ridge or swell of water." Almost everyone will agree to this definition. Milne-Thompson (1938) in Theoretical Hydrodynamics begins Chapter Fourteen on waves with the two paragraphs quoted in full below:"14.10 Wave motion. A wave motion of a liquid acted upon by gravity and having a free surface is a motion in which the elevation of the free surface above some chosen fixed horizontal plane varies with time.Taking the axis of x to be horizontal and the axis of z to be vertically upwards, a motion in which the vertical section of the free surface at time t is of the form z = a sin(mx - nt) (1), where a, m, n are constants, is called a simple harmonic progressive wave."

【 授权许可】

Unknown