Plating manifesto (II): the art and science of plating

Flavour

Ophelia Deroy²  Charles Michel¹  Betina Piqueras-Fiszman¹  Charles Spence¹ 

[1] Crossmodal Research Laboratory, Department of Experimental Psychology, University of Oxford, South Parks Road, Oxford OX1 3UD, England, UK;Centre for the Study of the Senses, Institute of Philosophy, University of London, London, UK

关键词: Vision;    Shape;    Plating;    Flavour;    Expectations;    Eating behaviour;    Colour;   

Others  :  805573
DOI  :  10.1186/2044-7248-3-4

 received in 2013-12-29, accepted in 2014-01-24,  发布年份 2014

【 摘 要 】

It is well known that people serve themselves more, not to mention eat more, when dining from larger bowls and plates than from smaller ones. But what about the other visual qualities of the plateware? Does the colour, shape and finish also influence a diner’s behaviour? How important are these extrinsic visual properties, or even the visual arrangement of the elements on the plate itself, in terms of modulating a diner’s eating behaviours and experiences? At a time when so much is known about the influence of the colour of individual food products on taste and flavour perception, and when so many modernist restaurants are using an increasingly eclectic range of visual designs for their dishes, there has been surprisingly little scientific research on how the more complex visual properties and arrangement of food presentations may affect the diner. Below, we argue that the exploration of these effects constitutes the next natural step in an increasingly fruitful interdisciplinary collaboration between chefs, psychologists, sensory scientists and designers. The most important research questions, then, are to identify the kinds of effects that the presentation style has on the multisensory consumption experiences and behaviours of diners, and to study the interactions between the different visual cues that are provided. Taken together, the evidence reviewed here helps to emphasize the fact that getting both the plateware and the plating right constitute surprisingly important components to sublimate the flavours of the food, in the delivery and experience of a great meal.

【 授权许可】

   
2014 Spence et al.; licensee BioMed Central Ltd.

【 图 表 】

Figure 1.

Figure 2.

Figure 3.

Figure 4.

Figure 5.

【 参考文献 】

• [1]Escoffier A: Le Guide Culinaire. 1st edition. Paris: Gallimard; 1902.
• [2]Van der Laan LN, de Ridder DTD, Viergever MA, Smeets PA: The first taste is always with the eyes: a meta-analysis on the neural correlates of processing visual food cues. Neuroimage 2011, 55:296-303.
• [3]Drobes DJ, Miller EJ, Hillman CH, Bradley MM, Cuthbert BN, Lang PJ: Food deprivation and emotional reactions to food cues: implications for eating disorders. Biol Psychol 2001, 57:153-177.
• [4]Spence C: Mouth-watering: the influence of environmental and cognitive factors on salivation and gustatory/flavour perception. J Texture Stud 2011, 42:157-171.
• [5]Wallner-Liebmann S, Koschutnig K, Reishofer G, Sorantin E, Blaschitz B, Kruschitz R, Unterrainer HF, Gasser R, Freytag F, Bauer-Denk C, Mangge H: Insulin and hippocampus activation in response to images of high-calorie food in normal weight and obese adolescents. Obesity 2010, 18:1552-1557.
• [6]Ouwehand C, Papies EK: Eat it or beat it. The differential effects of food temptations on overweight and normal-weight restrained eaters. Appetite 2010, 55:56-60.
• [7]Berthoud HR, Morrison C: The brain, appetite, and obesity. Annu Rev Psychol 2008, 59:55-92.
• [8]Shin AC, Zheng H, Berthoud HR: An expanded view of energy homeostasis: neural integration of metabolic, cognitive, and emotional drives to eat. Physiol Behav 2009, 97:572-580.
• [9]Levitsky D, Youn T: The more food young adults are served, the more they overeat. J Nutr 2004, 134:2546-2549.
• [10]Wansink B: From mindless eating to mindlessly eating better. Physiol Behav 2010, 100:454-463.
• [11]Nielsen SJ, Popkin BM: Patterns and trends in portion size. J Am Med Assoc 2003, 289:450-453.
• [12]Wansink B, van Ittersum K, Painter JE: Ice cream illusions: bowl size, spoon size, and self-served portion sizes. Am J Prev Med 2006, 31:240-243.
• [13]Diliberti N, Bordi PL, Conklin MT, Roe LS, Rolls BJ: Increased portion size leads to increased energy intake in a restaurant meal. Obes Res 2004, 12:562-568.
• [14]Wansink B, Cheney MM: Super bowls: serving bowl size and food consumption. J Am Med Assoc 2005, 293:1727-1728.
• [15]Van Kleef E, Shimizu M, Wansink B: Serving bowl selection biases the amount of food served. J Nutr Educ Behav 2012, 44:66-70.
• [16]Lyman B: A Psychology of food, more than a matter of taste. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold; 1989.
• [17]Titchener EB: Lectures on the Elementary Psychology of Feeling and Attention. New York: Macmillan; 1908.
• [18]Rolls BJ, Roe LS, Halverson KH, Meengs JS: Using a smaller plate did not reduce energy intake at meals. Appetite 2007, 49:652-660.
• [19]Piqueras-Fiszman B, Giboreau A, Spence C: Assessing the influence of the color of the plate on the perception of a complex food in a restaurant setting. Flavour 2013, 2:24. BioMed Central Full Text
• [20]de Graaf C, Cardello AV, Kramer FM, Lesher LL, Meiselman HL, Schutz HG: A comparison between liking ratings obtained under laboratory and field conditions: the role of choice. Appetite 2005, 44:15-22.
• [21]Rozin P, Kabnick K, Pete E, Fischler C, Shields C: The ecology of eating: smaller portion sizes in France than in the United States help explain the French paradox. Psychol Sci 2003, 14:450-454.
• [22]Kral TV: Effects on hunger and satiety, perceived portion size and pleasantness of taste of varying the portion size of foods: a brief review of selected studies. Appetite 2006, 46:103-105.
• [23]Restaurante Denis Martin [http://www.denismartin.ch/ webcite]
• [24]Deroy O, Piqueras-Fiszman B, Michel C, Spence C: The plating manifesto (I): from decoration to creation.
• [25]Yang J: The art of food presentation. 2011. [http://www.cravemag.com/features/the-art-of-food-presentation/ webcite]
• [26]10 colors that increase and decrease your appetite [http://weightloss.allwomenstalk.com/colors-that-decrease-and-increase-your-appetite webcite]
• [27]Harrar V, Piqueras-Fiszman B, Spence C: There’s more to taste in a coloured bowl. Perception 2011, 40:880-882.
• [28]Piqueras-Fiszman B, Alcaide J, Roura E, Spence C: Is it the plate or is it the food? The influence of the color and shape of the plate on the perception of the food placed on it. Food Qual Prefer 2012, 24:205-208.
• [29]Shankar MU, Levitan CA, Spence C: Grape expectations: the role of cognitive influences in color-flavor interactions. Conscious Cogn 2010, 19:380-390.
• [30]Ekroll V, Faul F, Niederée R: The peculiar nature of simultaneous colour contrast in uniform surrounds. Vis Res 2004, 44:1765-1786.
• [31]Hutchings JB: Food Colour and Appearance. London: Blackie Academic and Professional; 1994.
• [32]Leibowitz H, Myers NA, Chinetti P: The role of simultaneous contrast in brightness constancy. J Exp Psychol 1955, 50:15-18.
• [33]Blackwell L: Visual cues and their effects on odour assessment. Nutr Food Sci Nutr 1995, 95(5):24-28.
• [34]Spence C, Levitan C, Shankar MU, Zampini M: Does food color influence taste and flavor perception in humans? Chemosens Percept 2010, 3:68-84.
• [35]Harrar V, Spence C: The taste of cutlery. Flavour 2013, 2:21. BioMed Central Full Text
• [36]Maga JA: Influence of color on taste thresholds. Chem Senses 1974, 1:115-119.
• [37]O’Mahony M: Gustatory responses to nongustatory stimuli. Perception 1983, 12:627-633.
• [38]Piqueras-Fiszman B, Spence C: Crossmodal correspondences in product packaging: assessing color-flavor correspondences for potato chips (crisps). Appetite 2011, 57:753-757.
• [39]Spence C, Piqueras-Fiszman B: The multisensory packaging of beverages. In Food Packaging: Procedures, Management and Trends. Edited by Kontominas MG. New York: Nova Publishers, Hauppauge; 2012:187-233.
• [40]Asch SE: Forming impressions of personality. J Abnorm Soc Psychol 1946, 41:258-290.
• [41]Churchill A, Meyners M, Griffiths L, Bailey P: The cross-modal effect of fragrance in shampoo: modifying the perceived feel of both product and hair during and after washing. Food Qual Prefer 2009, 20:320-328.
• [42]Gal D, Wheeler SC, Shiv B: Cross-modal influences on gustatory perception. 2007. [http://ssrn.com/abstract=1030197 webcite]
• [43]Deroy O, Valentin D: Tasting liquid shapes: investigating the sensory basis of cross-modal correspondences. Chemosens Percept 2011, 4:80-90.
• [44]Day SA: The human sensoria and synaesthetic approach to cooking. Collapse 2011, 7:378-409.
• [45]Spence C, Deroy O: Tasting shapes: a review of four hypotheses. Theoria et Historia Scientiarumin press
• [46]Deroy O, Spence C: Quand les gouts & les formes se répondent. Cerveau Psycho 2013, 55:74-79.
• [47]Spence C: Managing sensory expectations concerning products and brands: capitalizing on the potential of sound and shape symbolism. J Consum Psychol 2012, 22:37-54.
• [48]Williams JM: Synesthetic adjectives: a possible law of semantic change. Language 1976, 52:461-478.
• [49]Spence C, Ngo M, Percival B, Smith B: Crossmodal correspondences: assessing the shape symbolism of foods having a complex flavour profile. Food Qual Prefer 2013, 28:206-212.
• [50]Apicius: Cooking and Dining in Imperial Rome (c. 1st Century; translated by J. D. Vehling). Chicago: University of Chicago Press; 1936:103.
• [51]Luki Huber, plateware designer for elBulli [http://www.lukihuber.com/ webcite]
• [52]Piqueras-Fiszman B, Spence C: The weight of the bottle as a possible extrinsic cue with which to estimate the price (and quality) of the wine? Observed correlations. Food Qual Prefer 2012, 25:41-45.
• [53]Spence C, Piqueras-Fiszman B: Multisensory design: weight and multisensory product perception. In Proceedings of Right Weight. Volume 2. Edited by Hollington G. London: Materials KTN; 2011:8-18.
• [54]Lakoff G, Johnson M: Metaphors We Live By. Chicago: Chicago University Press; 1983.
• [55]Stewart PC, Goss E: Plate shape and colour interact to influence taste and quality judgments. Flavour 2013, 2:27. BioMed Central Full Text
• [56]Gallace A, Spence C: In Touch with the Future: the sense of touch from cognitive neuroscience to virtual reality. Oxford: Oxford University Press; 2014.
• [57]Meiselman HL: Dimensions of the Meal: The Science, Culture, Business, and Art of Eating. Gaithersburg, MA: Aspen Publishers; 2000.
• [58]Reisfelt HH, Gabrielsen G, Aaslyng MD, Bjerre MS, Møller P: Consumer preferences for visually presented meals. J Sens Stud 2009, 24:182-203.
• [59]Arnheim R: The Power of the Center: A Study of Composition in the Visual Arts. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press; 1988.
• [60]Bouleau C: The Painter’s Secret Geometry. New York: Hacker Books; 1980.
• [61]Wilson A, Chatterjee A: The assessment of preference for balance: introducing a new test. Empir Stud Arts 2005, 23:165-180.
• [62]Kant E: Critique of the Power of Judgement. Edited by Guyer P. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press; 2000.
• [63]Smith BC: The aesthetics of wine. In Oxford Companion to Aesthetics. Edited by Keeley B. Oxford: Oxford University Press; in press
• [64]Zellner DA, Lankford M, Ambrose L, Locher P: Art on the plate: effect of balance and color on attractiveness of, willingness to try and liking for food. Food Qual Prefer 2010, 21:575-578.
• [65]Zellner DA, Siemers E, Teran V, Conroy R, Lankford M, Agrafiotis A, Ambrose L, Locher P: Neatness counts. How plating affects liking for the taste of food. Appetite 2011, 57:642-648.
• [66]Douglas M: Purity and Danger: an Analysis of Concepts of Pollution and Taboo. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul; 1966.
• [67]Mielby LH, Kildegaard H, Gabrielsen G, Edelenbos M, Thybo AK: Adolescent and adult visual preferences for pictures of fruit and vegetable mixes – effect of complexity. Food Qual Prefer 2012, 26:188-195.
• [68]Berlyne DE: Novelty, complexity and hedonic value. Percept Psychophys 1970, 8:279-286.
• [69]Carême MA: Le Pâtissier Pittoresque, Précédé d’un Traité des Cinq Ordres d’Architecture [The picturesque pastry chef, preceded by a treatise of the five orders of architecture]. Paris: Reanouard; 1828.
• [70]Horowitz J, Singley P: Eating Architecture. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press; 2004.
• [71]Hekkert P, Leder H: Design aesthetics. In Product Experience. Edited by Schifferstein HNJ, Hekkert P. London: Elsevier; 2008:259-285.
• [72]Berlyne DE, Ogilve JC, Parham LCC: The dimensionality of visual complexity, interestingness, and pleasingness. Can J Psychol 1968, 22:376-387.
• [73]Ramachandran VS: The Emerging Mind. London: Profile Books; 2003.
• [74]Painting #201 by Kandinsky, Moma Museum website [http://www.moma.org/collection/provenance/provenance_object.php?object_id=79452 webcite]
• [75]Michel C, Gatti E, Velasco C, Spence C: A taste of Kandinsky: Enhancing expectations and experience through the use of art-inspired food presentation. Brazil: Rio de Janeiro; 2013. [Poster presentation given at the 10th Pangborn Sensory Science Symposium (11-15th August 2013] )
• [76]Zampollo F, Wansink B, Kniffin KM, Shimuzu M, Omori A: Looks good enough to eat: how food plating preferences differ across cultures and continents. Cross Cult Res 2012, 46:31-49.
• [77]Goetz KO, Borisy AR, Lynn R, Eysenck HJ: A new visual aesthetic sensitivity test: I. Construction and psychometric properties. Percept Mot Skills 1979, 49:795-802.
• [78]Becker L, van Rompay TJL, Schifferstein HNJ, Galetzka M: Tough package, strong taste: the influence of packaging design on taste impressions and product evaluations. Food Qual Prefer 2011, 22:17-23.
• [79]Kildegaard H, Olsen A, Gabrielsen G, Møller P, Thybo AK: A method to measure the effect of food appearance factors on children’s visual preferences. Food Qual Prefer 2011, 22:763-771.
• [80]Spence C, Piqueras-Fiszman B: The Perfect Meal: The Multisensory Science of Food and Dining. Oxford: Wiley-Blackwell; in press
• [81]Wei ST, Ou LC, Luo MR, Hutchings JB: Optimization of food expectations using product colour and appearance. Food Qual Prefer 2012, 23:49-62.
• [82]Bradley L, Rees C: Reducing nutritional risk in hospital: the red tray. Nurs Stand 2003, 17:33-37.
• [83]Genschow O, Reutner L, Wänke M: The color red reduces snack food and soft drink intake. Appetite 2012, 58:699-702.