Flavour | |
Wine and music (III): so what if music influences the taste of the wine? | |
Qian Janice Wang1  Charles Spence1  | |
[1] Crossmodal Research Laboratory, Department of Experimental Psychology, Oxford University, South Parks Road, OxfordOX1 3UD, UK | |
关键词: Crossmodal correspondences; Emotion; Soundscapes; Multisensory experience design; Music; Wine; | |
Others : 1235042 DOI : 10.1186/s13411-015-0046-9 |
|
received in 2015-08-21, accepted in 2015-12-15, 发布年份 2015 | |
【 摘 要 】
A growing body of evidence, both anecdotal and scientifically rigorous, now points to the fact that what people taste when evaluating a wine, not to mention how much they enjoy the experience, can be influenced by the specifics of any music that happens to be playing at the same time. The question that we wish to address here is ‘So what?’ Why should anyone care that music (or, for that matter, specially composed soundscapes) exert(s) a crossmodal influence over the wine-tasting experience? ‘Why not just drink great wine and forget about the music?’ a sceptic might ask. Here, we outline a number of the uses that such research findings have been put to in the marketplace, in experiential events, in artistic performances, and in terms of furthering our theoretical understanding of those factors that influence the tasting experience. We also highlight how the latest in technology (think sensory apps and hyperdirectional loudspeakers, not to mention digitally augmented glassware) augurs well for those wanting to deliver the most stimulating, the most memorable, and certainly the most multisensory of tasting experiences in the years to come. Demonstrations of sound’s influence on wine perception will most likely be applicable to a variety of other drinks and foods too. Ultimately, the argument is forwarded that there are many reasons, both theoretical and applied, as to why we should all care about the fact that what we listen to can change the sensory-discriminative, the descriptive, and the hedonic attributes of what we taste.
【 授权许可】
2015 Spence and Wang.
【 预 览 】
Files | Size | Format | View |
---|---|---|---|
20151229002142157.pdf | 610KB | download |
【 参考文献 】
- [1]Pettit LA. The influence of test location and accompanying sound in flavor preference testing of tomato juice. Food Technol. 1958; 12:55-7.
- [2]Srinivasan M. Has the ear a role in registering flavour? Bull Cent Food Technol Res Inst Mysore. 1955; 4:136.
- [3]Spence C. Noise and its impact on the perception of food and drink. Flavour. 2014; 3:9.
- [4]Spence C. Music from the kitchen. Flavour. 2015; 4:25. BioMed Central Full Text
- [5]Spence C. Eating with our ears: assessing the importance of the sounds of consumption on our perception and enjoyment of multisensory flavour experiences. Flavour. 2015; 4:3. BioMed Central Full Text
- [6]Anon. Synaesthesia: Smells like Beethoven. In: The Economist. 2012. http://www.economist.com/node/21545975. Accessed 15 August 2015.
- [7]Antin C. What does wine sound like? 2014. http://punchdrink. com/articles/what-does-wine-sound-like/. Accessed 6 August 2015
- [8]Reid M. How Guns & Roses can change your tune on wine. In: TimesOnline. 2008. http://journalisted.com/article/b725. Accessed 9 August 2015.
- [9]Crawshaw A. How musical emotion may provide clues for understanding the observed impact of music on gustatory and olfactory perception in the context of wine-tasting. Unpublished manuscript. 2012.
- [10]Gray WB. ‘Enter Sandman’ with Cab? Road testing Smith’s theories. In: San Francisco Gate. 2007. http://www.sfgate.com/wine/article/Enter-Sandman-with-Cab-Road-testing-Smith-s-3235605.php. Accessed 13 August 2015.
- [11]Jones A. A far from vintage show as Callow uncorks the clichés. 2012. http://www. independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/tv/features/the-week-in-radio-a-far-from-vintage-show-as-callow-uncorks-the-clich-s-8269761.html. Accessed 3 August 2015
- [12]Smith C. Astringency and harmony in tannins. In: Wines & Vines. 2010. http://www.winesandvines.com/template.cfm?section=columns_article&content=78078. Accessed 8 July 2014.
- [13]Spence C, Wang QJ. Wine & music (II): can you taste the music? Flavour. 2015; 4:33. BioMed Central Full Text
- [14]Sachse-Weinert M. Wine & musik: 2 + 2 = 5 [Wine & music: 2 + 2 = 5]. Vortrag im Rahmen der Ringvorlesung “Weinwissenschaft” an der Johannes Gutenberg-Universität Mainz im Sommersemester. Presentation given on 4th July. 2012.
- [15]Gray WB. Music to drink wine by: Vintner insists music can change wine’s flavors. In: San Francisco Chronicle. 2007. http://www.sfgate.com/wine/article/Music-to-drink-wine-by-Vintner-insists-music-can-3235602.php. Accessed 13 August 2015.
- [16]Spence C, Richards L, Kjellin E, Huhnt A-M, Daskal V, Scheybeler A et al.. Looking for crossmodal correspondences between classical music & fine wine. Flavour. 2013; 2:29. BioMed Central Full Text
- [17]Spence C, Velasco C, Vanne M, Hopia A. Can you taste the music? In: 5D cookbook. Seinäjoki: KUMURU-project. 2014.73.
- [18]Wang QJ, Spence C. Assessing the effect of musical congruency on wine tasting in a live performance setting. i-Perception. 2015; 6:1-13.
- [19]Seo HS, Hummel T. Auditory-olfactory integration: congruent or pleasant sounds amplify odor pleasantness. Chem Senses. 2010; 36:301-9.
- [20]Labroo AA, Dhar R, Schwartz N. Of frog wines and frowning watches: semantic priming, perceptual fluency, and brand evaluation. J Consum Res. 2008; 34:819-31.
- [21]Winkielman P, Schwarz N, Fazendeiro T, Reber R. The hedonic marking of processing fluency: implications for evaluative judgment. In: The psychology of evaluation: Affective processes in cognition and emotion Mahwah: Lawrence Erlbaum. 2003.189-217.
- [22]Krishna A, Elder RS, Caldara C. Feminine to smell but masculine to touch? Multisensory congruence and its effect on the aesthetic experience. J Consum Psychol. 2010; 20:410-8.
- [23]Spence C. The price of everything—the value of nothing? World Fine Wine. 2010; 30:114-20.
- [24]Cheskin L. How to predict what people will buy. Liveright, New York; 1957.
- [25]North AC. The effect of background music on the taste of wine. Br J Psychol. 2012; 103:293-301.
- [26]Spence C, Deroy O. On why music changes what (we think) we taste. i-Perception. 2013; 4:137-40.
- [27]Walker P. Cross-sensory correspondences and naive conceptions of natural phenomena. Perception. 2012; 41:620-2.
- [28]Rigg MG. An experiment to determine how accurately college students can interpret the intended meanings of musical compositions. J Exp Psychol. 1937; 21:223-9.
- [29]Watt R, Quinn S. Some robust higher-level percepts for music. Perception. 2007; 36:1834-48.
- [30]Yeoh JPS, North AC. The effects of musical fit on choice between two competing foods. Music Sci. 2010; 14:127-38.
- [31]Areni CS, Kim D. The influence of background music on shopping behavior: classical versus top-forty music in a wine store. Adv Consum Res. 1993; 20:336-40.
- [32]North AC, Shilcock A, Hargreaves DJ. The effect of musical style on restaurant customers’ spending. Env Behav. 2003; 35:712-8.
- [33]Almenberg J, Dreber A. When does the price affect the taste? Results from a wine experiment. SSE/EFI Working Pap Ser Econ Finance. 2010; 717:1-16.
- [34]Fielden C. Exploring the world of wines and spirits. Wine & Spirit Education Trust, London; 2009.
- [35]Knapton S. Why sparkling wine sounds like beans falling on a plastic tray. In: The Daily Telegraph. 2015. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/science/science-news/11577381/What-does-wine-sound-like-Youre-about-to-find-out.html. Accessed 2 May 2015.
- [36]Spence C, Velasco C, Knoeferle K. A large sample study on the influence of the multisensory environment on the wine drinking experience. Flavour. 2014; 3:8. BioMed Central Full Text
- [37]Spence C. Crossmodal correspondences: a tutorial review. Atten Percept Psychophys. 2011; 73:971-95.
- [38]Spence C. On crossmodal correspondences and the future of synaesthetic marketing: matching music and soundscapes to tastes, flavours, and fragrance. In: (((ABA))) Audio Branding Academy Yearbook 2012/2013. Bronner K, Hirt R, Ringe C, editors. Nomos, Baden-Baden; 2013: p.39-52.
- [39]Belkin K, Martin R, Kemp SE, Gilbert AN. Auditory pitch as a perceptual analogue to odor quality. Psychol Sci. 1997; 8:340-2.
- [40]Deroy O, Crisinel A-S, Spence C. Crossmodal correspondences between odors and contingent features: odors, musical notes, and geometrical shapes. Psychon Bull Rev. 2013; 20:878-96.
- [41]Juslin PN, Sloboda JA. Handbook of music and emotion: theory, research, applications. Oxford Unviersity Press, Oxford; 2010.
- [42]Konečni VJ. Does music induce emotion? A theoretical and methodological analysis. Psychol Aesthet Creat Arts. 2008; 2:115-29.
- [43]Smith BC. The emotional impact of a wine and the Provencal rose paradox. Unpublished manuscript, 2009.
- [44]Brown S, Gao X, Tisdelle L, Eickhoff SB, Liotti M. Naturalizing aesthetics: brain areas for aesthetic appraisal across sensory modalities. Neuroimage. 2011; 58:250-8.
- [45]Henrich J, Heine SJ, Norenzayan A. The weirdest people in the world? Behav Brain Sci. 2010; 33:61-135.
- [46]Deliza R, Macfie HJH. The generation of sensory expectation by external cues and its effect on sensory perception and hedonic ratings: a review. J Sens Stud. 1996; 2:103-28.
- [47]Woods AT, Poliakoff E, Lloyd DM, Dijksterhuis GB, Thomas A. Flavor expectation: the effect of assuming homogeneity on drink perception. Chemosens Percept. 2010; 3:174-81.
- [48]Peynaud E. The taste of wine: the art and science of wine appreciation. Macdonald & Co., London; 1987.
- [49]Anon. The search for metaphorical matchings through wine and music. 2015. http://www.1855oxford.com. Accessed 12 August 2015.
- [50]Bronner K, Frieler K, Bruhn H, Hirt R, Piper D. What is the sound of citrus? Research on the correspondences between the perception of sound and flavour. In: Proceedings of the ICMPC – ESCOM 2012 Joint Conference. Tsougras C, Mavromatis P, Pastiadis K, editors. School of Music Studies, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, Thessaloniki; 2012: p.42-8.
- [51]Crisinel A-S, Cosser S, King S, Jones R, Petrie J, Spence C. A bittersweet symphony: systematically modulating the taste of food by changing the sonic properties of the soundtrack playing in the background. Food Qual Pref. 2012; 24:201-4.
- [52]Crisinel A-S, Jacquier C, Deroy O, Spence C. Composing with cross-modal correspondences: music and smells in concert. Chemosens Percept. 2013; 6:45-52.
- [53]Knoeferle KM, Woods A, Kappler F, Spence C. That sounds sweet: using crossmodal correspondences to communicate gustatory attributes. Psychol Market. 2015; 32:107-20.
- [54]Mesz B, Sigman M, Trevisan MA. A composition algorithm based on crossmodal taste-music correspondences. Front Hum Neurosci. 2012; 6:71.
- [55]Wang QJ, Woods A, Spence C. “What’s your taste in music?” A comparison of the effectiveness of various soundscapes in evoking specific tastes. i-Perception. in press.
- [56]McKenna G. Wine Vision: Wine must engage all the senses, say professors. In: Harpers. 2014. http://www.harpers.co.uk/news/wine-vision-wine-must-engage-all-the-senses-say-professors/373655.article. Accessed 10 August 2015.
- [57]Siddle R. Wines of Argentina’s Cambalache event shows way ahead for consumer wine tastings. In: Harpers. 2013. http://www.harpers.co.uk/wines-of-argentinas-cambalache-event-shows-way-ahead-for-consumer-wine-tastings/346742.article Accessed 10 August 2015.
- [58]King J. Krug champagne redefines tasting notes with orchestra event. In: Luxury Daily. 2014. http://www.luxurydaily.com/krug-champagne-redefines-tasting-notes-with-orchestraevent/. Accessed 6 August 2014.
- [59]Velasco C, Jones R, King S, Spence C. Assessing the influence of the multisensory environment on the whisky drinking experience. Flavour. 2013; 2:23. BioMed Central Full Text
- [60]Rosenthal R. Experimenter outcome-orientation and the results of the psychological experiment. Psychol Bull. 1964; 61:405-12.
- [61]Rosenthal R. Experimenter effects in behavioral research. Appleton-Centry-Crofts, New York; 1966.
- [62]Rosenthal R. Covert communication in the psychological experiment. Psychol Bull. 1967; 67:356-67.
- [63]Doyen S, Klein O, Pichon C, Cleeremans A. Behavioural priming: it’s all in the mind, but whose mind? PLoS One. 2012; 7:e19081.
- [64]Intons-Peterson MJ. Imagery paradigms: how vulnerable are they to experimenters’ expectations? J Exp Psychol Hum Percept Perform. 1983; 9:394-412.
- [65]Levitt SD, List JA. Was there really a Hawthorne effect at the Hawthorne plant? An analysis of the original illumination experiments. Am Econ J Appl Econ. 2011; 3:224-38.
- [66]Mayo E. Hawthorne and the Western Electric Company. The social problems of an industrial civilization. Routledge, London; 1949.
- [67]Zdep SM, Irvine SH. A reverse Hawthorne effect in educational evaluation. J Edu Psychol. 1970; 8:89-95.
- [68]Baral S. New app will help you pair music with your champagne. In: iDigitalTimes. 2015. http://www.idigitaltimes.com/krug-app-will-tell-you-what-music-pair-your-champagne-456934. Accessed 9 August 2015.
- [69]Jones S. Krug uses music to communicate Champagne taste digitally. In: Luxury Daily. 2014. http://www.luxurydaily.com/krug-uses-music-to-explore-differences-between-champagne-varieties. Accessed 9 August 2015.
- [70]North AC, Hargreaves DJ, McKendrick J. In-store music affects product choice. Nature. 1997; 390:132.
- [71]North AC, Hargreaves DJ, McKendrick J. The influence of in-store music on wine selections. J Appl Psychol. 1999; 84:271-6.
- [72]Sester C, Deroy O, Sutan A, Galia F, Desmarchelier J-F, Valentin D et al.. “Having a drink in a bar”: an immersive approach to explore the effects of context on drink choice. Food Qual Pref. 2013; 28:23-31.
- [73]Gueguen N, Jacob C, Le Guellec H, Morineau T, Lourel M. Sound level of environmental music and drinking behavior: a field experiment with beer drinkers. Alcohol Clin Exp Res. 2008; 32:1-4.
- [74]McCarron A, Tierney KJ. The effect of auditory stimulation on the consumption of soft drinks. Appetite. 1989; 13:155-9.
- [75]McElrea H, Standing L. Fast music causes fast drinking. Percept Mot Skills. 1992; 75:362.
- [76]Forsyth AJM, Cloonan M. Alco-pop? The use of popular music in Glasgow pubs. Pop Music Soc. 2008; 31:57-78.
- [77]North A, Hargreaves D. The social and applied psychology of music. Oxford University Press, Oxford; 2008.
- [78]Spence C, Shankar MU. The influence of auditory cues on the perception of, and responses to, food and drink. J Sens Stud. 2010; 25:406-30.
- [79]Robertson D. Why quiet restaurants are having a moment. In: The Daily Telegraph. 2015. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/restaurants/12014962/Why-quiet-restaurants-are-having-a-moment.html Accessed 26 November 2015.
- [80]Anon. Music ‘can enhance wine taste’. In: BBC News. 2008. http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/pr/fr/-/1/hi/uk/7400109.stm. Accessed 14 April 2008.
- [81]Spence C, Piqueras-Fiszman B. Technology at the dining table. Flavour. 2013; 2:16. BioMed Central Full Text
- [82]Spence C, Piqueras-Fiszman B. The perfect meal: the multisensory science of food and dining. Wiley-Blackwell, Oxford; 2014.
- [83]Bartoshuk LM. Separate worlds of taste. Psychol Today. 1980; 14(48-9):51,4-6,63.
- [84]Spence C. The supertaster who researches supertasters. In: The BPS Research Digest. 2013. http://www.bps-research-digest.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/day-4-of-digest-super-week-supertaster.html. Accessed 10 August 2015.
- [85]Prescott J. Taste matters: why we like the foods we do. Reaktion Books, London; 2012.
- [86]Styles O. Parker and Robinson in war of words. In: Decanter. 2004. http://www.decanter.com/wine-news/parker-and-robinson-in-war-of-words-102172/. Accessed 18 August 2015.
- [87]Sachse-Weinert M. Voce:divino in München. Synästhesie in perfektion. [Voce:divino in Munich: Pure synaesthesia]. Weinfeder J. 2014; 43:34-5.
- [88]Knapton S. To cut down sugar just change the background music. In: The Daily Telegraph. 2014. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/science/science-news/10898123/To-cut-down-on-sugar-just-change-the-background-music.htmls. Accessed 30 November 2015.
- [89]Spence C, Wang QJ. Wine & music (I): On the crossmodal matching of wine & music. Flavour. 2015;4:34.
- [90]Beardsley MC. Aesthetics: problems in the philosophy of criticism. Harcourt, Brace & Company, New York; 1958.
- [91]Tefler E. Food as art. In: Arguing about art: Contemporary philosophical debates. 2nd ed. Neill A, Ridley A, editors. Routledge, London; 2002: p.9-27.
- [92]Gurney E. The power of sound. Reprint. Forgotten Books, London; 1880.
- [93]McNeil A. Why Hindustani musicians are good cooks: analogies between music and food in North India. Asian Music. 2008; 25:69-80.
- [94]Stein BE, Meredith MA. The merging of the senses. MIT Press, Cambridge; 1993.
- [95]Holt-Hansen K. Taste and pitch. Percept Mot Skills. 1968; 27:59-68.
- [96]Anon. Beer and music evening. 2015. http://auricle.org.nz/beer-and-music-evening-with-harringtons/. Accessed 4 August 2015.
- [97]Holt-Hansen K. Extraordinary experiences during cross-modal perception. Percept Mot Skills. 1976; 43:1023-7.
- [98]von Hornbostel EM. The unity of the senses. In: Ellis WD, editor. A source book of Gestalt psychology. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul; 1927/1950. p. 210-6.
- [99]Rudmin F, Cappelli M. Tone-taste synesthesia: a replication. Percept Mot Skills. 1983; 56:118.
- [100]Jack A, Roepstorff A. Trusting the subject? Volume 1. The use of introspective evidence in cognitive science. Exeter: Imprint Academic; 2003.
- [101]Blumenthal H. The big Fat Duck cookbook. Bloomsbury, London; 2008.
- [102]De Lange C. Feast for the senses: Cook up a master dish. In: New Scientist. 2012. http://www.newscientist.com/article/mg21628962.200-feast-for-the-senses-cook-up-a-master-dish.html. Accessed 21 December 2012.
- [103]Pelowski M. Tears and transformation: feeling like crying as an indicator of insightful or “aesthetic” experience with art. Front Psychol. 2015; 6:1-23.
- [104]Vessel EA, Starr GG, Rubin N. Art reaches within: aesthetic experience, the self and the default mode network. Front Neurosci. 2013; 7:258.
- [105]Michel C, Velasco C, Gatti E, Spence C. A taste of Kandinsky: assessing the influence of the visual presentation of food on the diner’s expectations and experiences. Flavour. 2014; 3:7. BioMed Central Full Text
- [106]Reinoso Carvalho F, van Ee R, Rychtarikova M, Touhafi A, Steenhaut K, Persoone D et al.. Does music influence the multisensory tasting experience? J Sens Stud. 2015; 30:404-12.
- [107]Jones CA. Sensorium: embodied experience, technology, and contemporary art. MIT Press, Cambridge; 2006.
- [108]Schwartzman M. See yourself sensing: redefining human perception. Black Dog Publishing, London; 2011.
- [109]Piesse CH. Piesse’s art of perfumery. 5th ed. Piesse and Lubin, London; 1891.
- [110]Spence C. Multisensory advertising & design. In: Advertising and design. Interdisciplinary perspectives on a cultural field. Flath B, Klein E, editors. Verlag, Bielefeld; 2014: p.15-27.
- [111]Spence C. Sound design: how understanding the brain of the consumer can enhance auditory and multisensory product/brand development. In: Audio Branding Congress Proceedings 2010. Bronner K, Hirt R, Ringe C, editors. Nomos Verlag, Baden-Baden; 2011: p.35-49.
- [112]Spence C. Sound advice. Cocktail Lovers. 2013:18-9.
- [113]Wang QJ, Spence C. Assessing the influence of the multisensory atmosphere on the taste of vodka. Beverages. 2015; 1:204-17.
- [114]Anon. Experiential marketing goes multi-sensory. In: EbiquityOpinion. 2012. http://blog.ebiquity.com/2012/08/experiential-marketing-goes-multi-sensory. Accessed 10 August 2015.
- [115]Spence C, Deroy O. How automatic are crossmodal correspondences? Conscious Cogn. 2013; 22:245-60.
- [116]Stafford LD, Fernandes M, Agobiani E. Effects of noise and distraction on alcohol perception. Food Qual Pref. 2012; 24:218-24.
- [117]Rosenthal R. The “file drawer problem” and tolerance for null results. Psychol Bull. 1979; 86:638-41.
- [118]Erlebacher A, Sekuler R. Response frequency equalization: a bias model for psychophysics. Percept Psychophys. 1971; 9:315-20.
- [119]Harrar V, Smith B, Deroy O, Spence C. Grape expectations: how the proportion of white grape in Champagne affects the ratings of experts and social drinkers in a blind tasting. Flavour. 2013; 2:25. BioMed Central Full Text
- [120]Anon. To make the perfect wine you need sweet music, according to Austrian winemakers. In: Daily Mail. 2011. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1363587/To-make-perfect-wine-need-sweet-music.html. Accessed 10 August 2015.
- [121]Spence C, Puccinelli NM, Grewal D, Roggeveen AL. Store atmospherics: a multisensory perspective. Psychol Market. 2014; 31:472-88.
- [122]Spence C, Shankar MU, Blumenthal H. ‘Sound bites’: auditory contributions to the perception and consumption of food and drink. In: Art and the senses. Bacci F, Melcher D, editors. Oxford University Press, Oxford; 2011: p.207-38.
- [123]Baker N. Johnnie Walker reveals futuristic glass. 2015. http://www. thedrinksbusiness.com/2015/04/johnnie-walker-reveals-futuristic-glass/. Accessed 7 July 2015
- [124]Brown P. Ale, ale, rock and roll! Word Mag. 2012; 3:28-9.
- [125]Gopnik A. Sweet revolution. In: The New Yorker. 2011. http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2011/01/03/sweet-revolution. Accessed 10 August 2015.