Space-time variability of wave characteristics near the coasts of the Southern Kuril Islands

3rd National scientific conference with foreign participants "Geodynamical Processes and Natural Hazards"

生态环境科学

Borisov, A.S.^1 ; Kirillov, K.V.^1

Institute of Marine Geology and Geophysics Far Eastern Branch of Russian Academy of Science, Nauki st. 1B, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

693022, Russia^1

关键词: In-situ measurement;    Kuril Island;    Maximal values;    Sea surfaces;    Significant wave height;    Space-time variability;    Time-periods;    Wave characteristics;   

Others  :  https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1755-1315/324/1/012019/pdf
DOI  :  10.1088/1755-1315/324/1/012019

学科分类：环境科学（综合）

来源: IOP

【 摘 要 】

Significant wave heights and most probable wave heights in the nearshore areas of the Southern Kuril Islands are considered in this paper. These characteristics were obtained from data of in-situ measurements of hydrostatic pressure in the depth range from 5 to 25 m. The measurements have been performed in 2008 and 2009. It is shown in the paper that relatively calm sea surface was observed in time period from July till first half of September. Most probable wave heights varied from 0.17 m to 0.27 m and maximal values of significant wave heights varied from 0.75 m to 1m in the depth range from 15 to 25 m. For depths less than 15 m most probable wave heights varied from 0.05 m to 0.1 m and maximal values of significant wave heights varied from 0.68 m to 1m. Time period from second half of September is characterized as stormy period. Maximal values of significant wave height reached 5 m at that time and most probable wave heights varied from 0.1 to 1 m depending on depth and location. Period from January till April can be characterized by high number of moderate storms with maximal value of significant wave heights 1.8 m and most probable wave heights from 0.13 to 0.33 m.